Reckon EIC, Ryan Nave, is enjoying a well-deserved break this week, so I, the deputy editor, Michelle Zenarosa, am stepping in to share my perspective on a topic close to my heart – and stomach: the food business.

If you have yet to experience FX’s “The Bear,” you have about 24 hours to immerse yourself before the third season premieres. This critically-acclaimed series is serving up a raw and unfiltered look at the chaotic, beautiful, and often brutal world of restaurant kitchens.

As someone who’s also spent countless hours sweating it out in the back of the house in between journalism jobs, as a sous chef and line cook both in high-end kitchens and greasy spoons, I can attest to some of the show’s authenticity. The frantic pace, the razor-thin margins for error, the adrenaline rush of service, the camaraderie forged under fire – that’s all there, captured in all its gritty glory.

The series’ portrayal of the camaraderie that often emerges among back-of-house staff is particularly striking to me. From the quiet moments of shared cigarettes and stolen laughs, The Bear nailed it. Like the show, the people I worked with and I were a motley crew, a mishmash of misfits and dreamers, all united by love of food and willingness to put in the hard work required to create it. We relied on each other, supported each other and often become a surrogate family.

But it’s not just about the good times. The show also doesn’t shy away from the harsh realities of the industry: the burnout, the injuries, the exploitation. While many are calling it a love letter to the unsung heroes who make the magic happen, it’s also a sobering reminder of the challenges low wage workers face.

Kitchen confidential: The truth about the industry

Will the restaurant industry, a cornerstone of American culture and employment, finally face the reckoning it needs? While glamorous portrayals like FX’s “The Bear” showcase the adrenaline and artistry of culinary creation, the reality for many workers is far less appetizing. Wage theft, harassment, discrimination, and a mental health crisis are plaguing the industry, leaving many workers struggling to make ends meet and questioning their future in the field.

A recent report by the Economic Policy Institute revealed a staggering statistic: 60% of restaurant workers have experienced wage theft, losing an average of $2,300 annually. This translates to billions of dollars stolen from the pockets of people who are already among the lowest-paid workers in the country.

The issue bubbled in the news late last week as Donald Trump proposed to scrap taxes on tips, aiming to win favor among service workers, but critics argue it’s a superficial fix to deeper wage issues. Labor groups are advocating for higher base wages instead, highlighting the cost of living and inflation concerns in a pivotal election year.

“While the idea of untaxed tips may appear beneficial, One Fair Wage sees Trump’s comments for what they are — a superficial attempt to pander to workers that distracts from the fundamental problem of low and subminimum wages,” said Saru Jayaraman, president of One Fair Wage, a national campaign to end unfair wages and lift millions of service workers out of poverty, in statement earlier this month.

Some states let restaurants pay their servers and bartenders way less than minimum wage, as long as the tips they earn make up the difference. But in places like Louisiana and Alabama, that base pay can be as low as $2.13 an hour, which is a pretty big deal, especially with rising costs.

Harassment and discrimination are also rampant, disproportionately affecting women and LGBTQ+ individuals. A 2014 Restaurant Opportunities Centers United report found that 80% of female restaurant workers and 70% of male restaurant workers have experienced some form of sexual harassment on the job. The #MeToo movement has shed light on some of these issues, but systemic change remains elusive.

The pandemic has only exacerbated problems, leaving millions of workers unemployed and forcing many businesses to close permanently. Even as the industry slowly recovers, workers are facing a new set of challenges. Many restaurants are struggling to find and retain staff, leading to increased workloads and burnout for those who remain.

We also can’t ignore the mental health toll of restaurant work. Long hours, high stress, and a lack of support have created a perfect storm for anxiety, depression, and substance abuse. The industry has one of the highest rates of suicide, yet mental health resources are often scarce or inaccessible for workers.

The truth is that the restaurant industry is at a crossroads. The pandemic has forced many to re-evaluate priorities and demand better working conditions and many restaurants are now offering higher wages, better benefits, and more flexible schedules to attract and retain talent.

But there’s still a long way to go.

Data points were made

-A U.S. Department of Labor investigation of over 9,000 restaurants found in 2022 that 84% of those restaurants violated wage and hour laws. (SEIU)

-In 2021, 60% of servers at upscale restaurants have at least one mental health problem, such as depression or anxiety (The National Center for Biotechnology Information)

-In 2023 70% of chefs who responded said they had experienced anxiety from working in restaurants. Substance abuse and sleeping disorders also remain high. (Cozymeal)

-LGBTQ workers are overrepresented in food service jobs at 18% and discriminated against the most. About 82% of LGBTQ respondents reported witnessing or experiencing sexual behaviors or comments that make them uncomfortable or feel unsafe at work at a higher rate than their straight counterparts (67%). Of those LGBTQ respondents, 72% of LGBTQ workers reported that this harassment made them consider leaving their jobs, compared with 41% of straight workers. (One Fair Wage)

-In 2014, harassment is routine as 66% of women food service workers said they experienced sexual harassment from management at least on a monthly basis and 52% on at least a weekly basis. (Restaurant Opportunities Centers United)

-The leisure and hospitality industry saw a staggering 5.1% quit rate in January 2023—more than double the average across industries. Turnover reached record highs in 2021 and 2022, increasing by 14% for full-service restaurants and 24% for limited-service venues compared to 2019. (Black Box Intelligence)

-Restaurants are hiring: The industry workforce is projected to grow by 200,000 jobs, for total industry employment of 15.7M by the end of 2024. (National Restaurant Association)

Take action: We can all do something about this! If you’re eating out, try to support restaurants that treat their staff well. And for those in power, it’s time to strengthen those labor laws and make sure everyone’s playing by the rules. Want to learn more or get involved? Keep up with ROC-United and see how you can help restaurant workers fight for fair pay, safe conditions, and an end to harassment and discrimination.